Mens Fashion - All About brogues ( Types and Differences )




Hi everyone, this is a kinda post that i would call a necessary post. I don't know why i always find myself in discussions with people concerning brogues. most people often feel that a shoe can only be categorized under brogues if it has those perforations ( holes ) around it. But that's not even true at all. there are other kinds of brogues and some brogues are even categorized according to the lacing or closure as it is called. There are full brogues ( wingtips ) , semi ( half ) brogues, quarter brogues and these are all categorized according to their Pattern of perforation. And if categorized by lacing closure, we have oxfords, derbies, ghillies and monks. I'm gonna be explaining all in the best possible easiest way the i think you would understand and also illustrate with pictures.



First of all, Let me explain the term Toecap in relation to shoes, well in this case in relation to brogues. ToeCap could be said to be a piece of leather or other material covering the toe of a shoe reinforcing or decorating it. 

Also Let me explain the whole Broguing thing to you or the cases where you can call a shoe brogues. Whenever a shoe has decorative patterns along the toe and along the edges of the shoe’s piecing, This design is called 'broguing'.
Lets start off with brogues categorized by their pattern or perforation

Full brogues (also known as wingtips) - First of all we have the Full brogues otherwise known as wingtips. They are characterized by a pointed toe cap with extensions (wings) that run along both sides of the toe, terminating near the ball of the foot. Viewed from the top, this toe cap style is "W" shaped and looks similar to a bird with extended wings, explaining the style name "wingtips" that is commonly used in the US. The toe cap of a full brogue is both perforated and serrated along its edges and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. 











Semi brogues (also known as half brogues) - Next we have Semi brogues (also known as half brogues). They are characterized by a toe cap with decorative perforations and serration along the cap's edge and includes additional decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. The half brogue was first designed and produced by John Lobb Ltd. as an Oxford in 1937 in an effort to offer his customers a shoe more stylish than a plain oxford, yet not as bold as a full brogue. Semi-brogues are more formal than full brogues.



Quarter brogues - Quarter brogues are characterized by a cap toe with decorative perforations and serrations along the cap's edge, however, unlike semi-brogues, quarter brogues have no decorative perforations in the center of the toe cap. Quarter brogues are the more formal than semi brogues and full brogues. Quarter brogues are the most formal of dress shoes with broguing, making them the ideal fit to pair with business attire (suits).







Monks - A monk shoe is a style of shoe with no lacing, closed by a buckle and strap. It is also known as a monk strap, and has been called the "most advanced" dress shoe. If it is closed by two buckles instead of one, then its called a double monkstrap. The reason i am putting the monks under brogues is because some monks have perforations like brogues which is why if a shoe has this perforation or broguing as it is called, its categorized as a brogues.






Next off, we have brogues categorized by their lacing closure. There are basically two types. Oxfords and Derbies

An Oxford is a lace-up shoe where the eyelet facings ( which means the holes where the laces are put through ) are stitched underneath the vamp (front section of the shoe). This style of shoe is sometimes called a closed front.




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 A Derby on the other hand is a lace-up shoe where the eyelet facings are stitched on top of the vamp (front section of the shoe). This style of shoe is sometimes called an open front.




Summary

This is a picture of the difference between Derbies and Oxfords. As you can see, the are differentiated by the closure of the lacing.Derbies are separated from the beginning of the lacing holes while oxfords are joint as you can see from the pictures





Then this is the categorization of brogues according to their Toecap ( or design as people would like to call it ).The full brogues are perforated from the toe cap and run along towards the back of the shoe like a wing. The half brogues just has the perforation at the Toe cap while the quarter brogues have no perforations at the toe cap and wings, they just have perforations running along the edge. here is a picture perforation



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IK is a Fashion and Lifestyle blogger currently living in Lagos, Nigeria. Feel free to look around and say hi.

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